I write to you this fine afternoon from the medieval southern Bohemian town of Cesky Krumlov, home of one of the most well-preserved Baroque castles in Europe. We toured the castle today and I've decided that no matter what the law says, I'm going to live there someday. The first floor is all 16th century late Renaissance and early Baroque with lots of Italian influence, and the upper floors are mid to late 18th century neoclassical. I think I've got that right. The castle changed hands between a few different families, which means there are lots of different crests all over, some painted on plaster covering the frescoed crests of the family before them!
We started in the chapel, which I won't describe because I took a picture before our tour guide told us it wasn't allowed and I doubt the Czech government will prosecute me if they happen to find my picture on the internet. Each of the rooms we visited were incredibely ornate and elaborate. Apparently, it is the best preserved castle of its kind, because the last family to live in it, the Schwarzenbergs (or was it the Rosenbergs? One came before the other), had kept all the original decor in certain rooms while adding their own elsewhere, and they left it all when they built another palace in a different location that was more up to modern fashion standards because the modern palace had modern decor and furniture. They also kept meticulous records, which means the curators know almost exactly where everything goes.
The coolest part actually was the outside. When the entire town was redone in the 16th century in the Italian Renaissance style (everything was originally built in the 14th century in a Gothic style), the ruler had everything covered in fresco. The frescoes are amazing and in many places imitate detailed stone carving on the sides of buildings. I'll post my many photos when I'm back in Prague and you'll see why I'm so captivated.
After the castle tour, everyone but me went to some art gallery with mostly turn of the century styles, which isn't so much my cup of tea, so I wandered the town. I circled it in about ten or fifteen minutes. The river winds around and almost makes it an island, which is quite confusing. I roamed in and out of souvenir shops, which seems to be about all there is here, other than hostels, restaurants, and pubs. I wanted to go kayaking in the river, but nobody else wanted to go with me. Also, it rained earlier and it looks like it could rain again at any moment, so I'd rather not get wet.
Just bought myself a big fat book to keep me occupied back in Prague (Nicholas Nickleby- yes, I read Dickens for fun), which is how I got to be using the internet for free. I also browsed a nearby shop that had a good collection of maps from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. The oldest ones were hand-colored and extremely expensive but fascinating.
Tomorrow we're supposed to go on a long morning hike somewhere in the Sudetenland. Will report on that from back in Prague. In the meantime, love to all.
